By Renée S. Gordon
Mobile, Alabama, a city with one of the oldest histories in the nation, has always been shaped and characterized by some of its larger than life inhabitants. Mobile, situated on the Gulf of Mexico where the Mobile River and Mobile Bay meet, after 1200-years, continues to be a destination for the traveler in search of a stimulating and eclectic vacation.
The first inhabitants of the area were the Native Americans who migrated onto the land around 2700 BC, but the majority of the early archeological evidence is from the great Chiefdom societies of the Mississippian Era, 800 to first European contact.
Spanish Admiral Alvarez de Pineda sailed into Mobile Bay in 1519 and camped for 40 days to repair his fleet. Twenty-one years later Desoto entered the area, disease and destruction following in his wake. It was in response to this trail of devastation that Chief Tuskaloosa led his warriors in what remains the bloodiest conflict between the indigenous people and Europeans on the continent.
On Oct. 18, 1540 the Battle of Mauvillia, a fortified Native American village, left more than 4500 natives dead and more than 1/3 of the Spanish forces. The location of the city of Mauvillia is in question but the city of Mobile would take its name from the Indians who populated the area. The charismatic, 7-ft. Chief Tuskaloosa would become the first personality to shape the city because the battle, though a defeat, so depleted the forces of the conquistadors that they were unable to take control of the region.
Nineteen years later 1,000 colonists, led by Tristán de Luna y Arellano settled in the native village of the “Rivers of Alabama,” Nanipacna at Mobile Bay but it is Canadian born Pierre LeMoyne, Sieur d’Iberville that is generally credited with establishing the first European colony.
A French port and trading center was established on Dauphin Island in the bay. The island, referred to as Massacre Island because of the human skeletons found there, was the site of Fort Louis de La Louisiane, the first capitol of the Louisiana Colony. It was during these first years that slaves from Saint-Domingo (Haiti) were transported on a supply boat to the colony.
The city was relocated in 1711 and a wooden fort was constructed. In 1723 it was replaced with an 11-acre brick structure called Fort Condé. It protected the city until 1820. Under Spanish rule (1780-1813) it was Fort Carlota and Fort Charlotte under the British (1763-1780) and again when the Americans gained control. The original was torn down in 1820. A free tour of this amazing 4/5-scale reconstruction interprets Mobile’s territorial history. Twenty slaves and five white workmen constructed the fort and showcased within are 4 dioramas of the building process. There are 11 displays including a museum, jail, quarters and Terreplein level with cannons and sentry boxes.
The Museum of Mobile is housed inside an 1857 structure that was designed as a marketplace. In the 20s it became City Hall and in 2001 it opened as a museum. It currently has more than 85,000 artifacts. The murals in the foyer were a WPA project and they, along with two floors of galleries, provide an overview of the area’s history and even the corridors are used for display purposes.
“Old Ways, New Days,” on the 1st floor presents a timeline of history divided into four eras. Highlights of this section include a walk-thru quarter deck of a slave ship, a life-sized shackled slave carved from a tree on a plantation, an interactive slave auction block and information on the last slave ship in the nation. The museum is creative in its presentation. Visitors can see, hear and touch artifacts.
The most popular interactive exhibit is a model of the CSS Hunley, a Civil War submarine you can climb inside.
Special note should be taken of the showcase featuring memorabilia of James Reese Europe, the most respected jazz bandleader of his time, born in Mobile in 1881. He served with the 369th Infantry, the “Harlem Hellfighters,” in combat and as leader of their regimental band. He is credited with introducing jazz into Europe. ww.museumofmobile.com
The Gulf Coast Exploreum Science Center is so exciting you really need to experience it for yourself no matter your age. This state-of-the-art museum boasts an interactive chemistry lab, 3-D virtual theater, IMAX and six permanent exhibits. The newest exhibit, “My BodyWorks,” is the most technologically advanced in the nation and features fifty health-related interactive displays. Visitors can do everything from a snapshot health assessment to performing virtual surgery. On high-tech machines you perform heart bypass, knee replacement and surgical hand-eye coordination exercises. The activity is so realistic that people who are going to have the surgery visit the museum to preview the procedure. If that is a little too real for your taste on the 2nd floor you can play a laser harp, no strings just beautiful music. At a NASA exhibit on robotics and solid works engineering visitors design something and see it come to life on a 3D printer. Don’t miss this museum! www.exploreum.net
The very first Mardi Gras was held in 1703 in Mobile, Alabama and it was not until fifteen years later that the first one was held in New Orleans. Mobile held no celebration from 1862-1865 but after the war another of the city’s unique personalities, Joe Cain, began a spontaneous parade through the streets to lift the post-war gloom and quickly returned as an annual event. His memory is honored on “Joe Cain Day,” the Sunday prior to Ash Wednesday, when the residents “Raise Cain.”
All the glamour and spectacle is captured in the Mobile Carnival Museum through video, memorabilia and dioramas. The highlights of the tour are the rooms dedicated to the clothing worn by past kings and queens. The designs of the queen’s gowns defy imagination, are hand sewn and can cost as much as $70,000. The gown with the heaviest train on display is adorned with Swarovski crystals, weighs 85-lbs and has small rollers so that it glides perfectly. While on tour visitors can climb aboard a float and throw beads and moon pies, a specialty of Mobile’s parade. www.mobilecarnivalmuseum.com
A singular site for a singular individual is the Hank Aaron Childhood Home and Museum located at Hank Aaron Stadium home of the Mobile BayBears. Though born in Camden, Alabama Aaron grew up in this home that was built by his father in 1942. The original house was 25′ by 25′ but in the 60s a kitchen and indoor plumbing were added. The house was donated by the Aaron family, moved to this site in 2008 and cocooned within an identical structure to preserve the exterior. Museum visits include three videos and four galleries that feature memorabilia, uniforms, trophies and photographs.
Hank Aaron was inducted into the Baseball Hall of Fame in 1982. He has maintained a commitment to charitable endeavors. The museum opened in 2010 and is allied with the BayBears’ Charities and is designed to serve as an educational facility and inspiration to people everywhere. www.mobilebaybears.cm
The new $10-million 5 Rivers Delta Center is situated on the Mobile-Tensaw River Delta, the second largest in the continental US. This is a great place to learn all about the Delta. There are six campsites, four on floating platforms, and ecological tours, eco-safaris, hiking and kayaking are offered. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Landmarks in 1974. www.5RDS.com
Mobile’s most interesting reptile is unequivocally Captain Crunch. He and 300 of his closest friends live at Alligator Alley, 20-acres of natural cypress swamp with elevated platforms to facilitate viewing. Crunch, weighing in at 875-lbs and more than 13-ft.long, is in the Guinness Book of Records as having the greatest bite force of any alligator in the world. Many of the alligators have been rescued and found sanctuary here, for Crunch it is a penal colony because he has been deemed dangerous. It is open daily. www.gatoralleyfarm.com
Two of Alabama’s most opulent hotels are centrally located for visits to the city, both are world class, are renowned for their hospitality and service and are on the Alabama Spa Trail.
The historic Battle House Hotel is on the site of Andrew Jackson’s 1812 military headquarters. The first hotel was constructed here in 1852 and during the civil War it functioned as a hospital. The original burned in 1905 and it reopened three years later. In 2007 it underwent a $200-million renovation retaining its Tiffany glass and historic murals. It is listed as “One of the Top 500 Hotels in the World.” www.rsabattlehouse.com
The Grand Hotel and Marriott Resort is located on Point Clear on 550-acres. This destination family resort offers golf, a beach, pools, tennis, Splash Park, a world-class spa and sumptuous Sunday brunch. www.marriottgrand.com
Mobile offers an exciting alternative to Times Square this New Years Eve. Festivities begin with a Mardi Gras-style parade and live entertainment including an O’Jays concert. At the stroke of midnight a 12′, 350-lb, MoonPie will descend amidst a huge laser and fireworks show marking the beginning of the new decade and Mardi Gras season, followed by a giant street party.
Mobile is famous for its seafood and regional cuisine and before I close I must leave you with my personal list of all the best places to pig out. Several are listed as one of the “100 Best Places to Eat in Alabama”. My suggestion, try them all. Bimini Bob’s (www.biminibobs.com), Callaghan’s Irish Social Club (www.callaghansirishsocialclub.com), Felix’s Fish Camp (www.felixsfishcamp.com), The Palette Café (www.thepalettecafe.com), The Shed BBQ and Blues Joint (www.theshedbbq.com), Spot of Tea (www.spotoftea.net), and Wintzell’s Oyster House (www.wintzellsoysterhouse.com) Bon Appetite!
A trip to Mobile, Alabama is a wonderful way to end the old year and begin the new one. Think Coastal! www.mobilebay.org
I wish you smooth and delicious travels!
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